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I bought the Cheapest LHD Range Rover in the EU with 447 100 km – Part 2

I bought the Cheapest LHD Range Rover in the EU with 447 100 km – Part 2

Considering the mileage, the underside of this high mileage Range rover is not great not terrible. Let’s start with the front of the car. As you can see the front subframe has some
rust on it which is not surprising at all. This is obviously not a reason to celebrate,
but there are still no holes in it and I have seen worse so, let’s move on to the control
arms. The front control arms are still ok and the
bushings in them are still in a good condition. On the other side the front rear control arms
have seen better days. The driver’s side control arm bushing is
cracked as you can see, and the ball joint has some play in it as well. Of course this control arm is still not in
a catastrophic horrible condition, but it should be replaced in the near future. The bushing in the passenger side control
arm is in a similar condition, but the ball joint is in a much better shape on this side. However the drive shaft on the other hand,
on this side has visible play in it. But the rubber boots are in a great condition
and there are no symptoms of bad drive shaft during driving so it’s still not great not
terrible. The drive shaft on the driver’s side has
basically no play in it so this one is still in a great condition. The other suspension components in the front
are in a good condition and there are no visible leaks from the engine or from the front differential
either, as you can see. Moving on to the middle section we can see
the gearbox and the transfer case. As you can see the transfer case is leaking
a little which is not the end of the world, but again it’s also not something which
would bring me satisfaction. Then there is the transfer case actuator motor
which is known to fail sometimes on these cars. And as I said in the previous video I got
issues with engaging and disengaging the low range so this motor can be faulty. It also has these numbers on it, but I have
no idea if it was replaced in the past, but if you know what kind of a massage is hidden
behind these numbers then you should definitely write it into the comments. And let’s check out visually the gearbox. The magnificent 5 speed General Motors automatic
gearbox which was made in France. A french made US gearbox, well, this doesn’t
sound very comforting. But at least it’s not leaking oil except
this area where the shifter linkage is connected. Not the end of the world, but of course it
has other issues which you will get to know later. The back of the underside is not very horrible
either, although the rear differential looks like it has been sitting in a swamp with shrek
for at least a year, but it’s still not leaking so it will be better to just let it
be I guess. There is also some more rust in this area
but still could be worse. Moving onto the rear control arm bushings,
they don’t look torn or worn out which is good, although the subframe bushings are a
little cracked as you can see. The rear shock absorbers are surprisingly
not leaking and the air struts are not leaking either, so that’s positive. And by the way, if you have a Range Rover
like this or if you have a car with this kind of an air strut type then you should definitely
occasionally clean this area under the air strut itself. Because as you can see over time dirt, tiny
rocks and road salt will accumulate in this area. This is not ideal because as the air strut
moves the dried out dirt will act like a sand paper since its pushing to the rubber itself
which will result in wear, cracks and obviously air leaks in the future. When it comes to rust, yes overall there is
some rust on the undercarriage but honesty, I was expecting a worse condition. Of course the rear passenger side jacking
point is completely ruined and there are some bigger rust spots here and there but what
can I say? Road salt. As in the previous video, let me know in the
comments what you think! Is the underside condition acceptable or just
hopeless? Meanwhile I will show you the very basic maintenance
I did. So while the car was up in the air I changed
the transfer case fluid. This is very easy, just don’t forget to
first unscrew the filler screw and only then the drain screw. After this screw back the drain plug, obviously,
and fill the transfer case. I used this kind of a cheap pump to fill it,
but most importantly I filled it with this kind of a more expensive genuine special transfer
box oil. I don’t know what is so special about it,
except the price, but generally speaking it really is the best to use only genuine fluids
if you want to change the transfer case or the differential fluids in any car. Next I changed the engine oil, which is also
very easy. Unscrew the drain plug, drain it, change the
oil filter and fill it. Of course you can say that changing these
fluid in this particular car is just a complete waste of time and money and yes, it is. But it’s also the least I can do and the
car is still working so at the end it deserved it But how this high mileage Range Rover behaves
on the road? Well, surprisingly good, but let’s start
with the seating position. You sit here high like a king, the visibility
is great like from a castle, and there is more than enough room for your crew. Thanks to the big windshield and the big narrow side windows you really get a great visibility from the interior on the other side thanks to these big windows the interior also heats up more on a sunny day. But what about the driving? Well. Just imagine a living room a tank and a tractor. Combine all these things into one and imagine
driving this combined thing. Why a living room? Well I think I don’t really need to explain
this, but you know space, comfort, leather seats and wood trim Why a tank? Because of the weight and the body rigidity. Of course this car weights a lot but this
is understandable, since the body of this Range Rover is extremely rigid even after this mileage and 16 years of use. There is absolutely no noticeable flexing
or various sounds from the body panels and it doesn’t matter on what kind of a surface
you are travelling or crawling. It really feels like it was made from a single
piece of iron cube. And even the interior rattling noises are
almost non existent + the front seats are still completely solid without any kind of
excessive play or squeaking old grandma chair noises. And lastly why a tractor? Because of the loud engine. The engine is definitely louder than you would
expect. Mainly from the outside at acceleration it
sounds like a big loud diesel truck and at idle it is like a tractor. The interior is on the other side pretty well
insulated from the outside noises considering the fact that the body has this big narrow
boxy shape, although in some cases you can hear the engine in the interior a bit more
than you would like. The next thing I want to discuss is the suspension
of this Range Rover. As we all know this car is equipped with an
air suspension and with regular shock absorbers so these are not electronically adjustable
shocks, which means that you can’t change the stiffness of the suspension. But believe it or not this Range Rover can
automatically soften the suspension a little. How is that possible? Well it’s possible because of these magic
boxes which are called interconnected cross link valves. One box with this valve is in the front and
one is in the back of the car. The front valve connects the front air struts
and the rear valve connects the rear air struts. These solenoid operated valves are controlled
by the air suspension ECU, so if you are travelling at 20 km/h or lower, then these valves can
automatically engage and this way they will connect the the 2 air springs together allowing
the air to flow directly between them. This magical solution improves the off road
capability of the suspension and it also makes the suspension softer. After 20 km/h this feature is not available
but that’s not really a problem since the suspension is really comfortable anyway. And on very bad quality roads at lower speeds the comfort level of the suspension is the most noticeable. On road imperfections like here, you can very
well see the minimal movement of the body and the maximal movement of the shocks which translates into an unbelievably comfortable ride in these situations. Everywhere you read or hear about this car,
everywhere they say how comfortable it is and yes, it is, let’s not pretend that it’s
not. However when you suddenly hit a specific type
of road imperfection at higher speeds like at 70 or 90 km/h then the suspension can react
this. As you can see from the shaking of the camera
some of the specific road imperfections starts to be more noticeable than I would expect. Of course I still can’t say that it’s
uncomfortable because it’s definitely not, and the stability of the car is very good
as well. On the other side at these regular speeds
the body roll in corners is surprisingly not that big as I would expect, considering the
weight and the size of this thing + the steering is tight and very precise even after all these years and kms. And even though some of the suspension parts
are worn as you could see earlier, the suspension components are not making any significant
creaking, squeaking or rattling noises, which is definitely interesting. From the footage it seems like the car is
driving without any issues, but that’s of course not true. The first not good sign is this kind of strange
continuous whining or humming noise, if you listen closely you can hear it. It’s not always there but a lot of times
it is, usually from approximately 60km/h. This noise is coming from the center of the
car so maybe from the transfer case or from the gearbox. And of course let’s not forget the gearbox. Long story short it is still working, but its slipping more than it should and I have to change the gears manually. Because if I let it in the regular Drive mode
then after warming up and accelerating, the revs suddenly jump up to 3000 or 4000 rpm like this and after 2 or 3 shuddering the gearbox switches into limp mode which means
that it will be locked in 3rd or 4th gear and in this mode it will constantly let the
torque converter slip, and then the car will become extremely slow. But interestingly after restarting the engine
the gearbox will switch back to normal mode, although after a short time it obviously gets
into limp mode again unless I will use the manual mode. In the regular drive mode it can also shudder
pretty badly so it feels like the gearbox want to jump out of the car. On the other side, when I use the manual mode
then I can more or less drive without any issues, although even here it starts to occasionally slip or shudder mostly while changing some gears. However if I manage to accelerate to 80 km/h
or more then the gearbox locks into 5th gear and I can travel happily without any slipping
or shuddering until the first slow down. So that was the gearbox, maybe I will at least
try to check out in what condition is the gearbox fluid but that’s a topic for another
video. Unlike the gearbox, the engine in this car
is working very well, although let’s not pretend that it’s very suitable for this
car. I mean it is ok for regular calm cruising
and believe it or not, even for slower overtaking as you can see. But I would just choose the newer bigger V8
engine which is suitable for everything, except my wallet is not suitable for buying a newer
V8 diesel Range Rover. But back to this old thing. Actually, the only things which should be
changed immediately on this car are the brake pads and the brake hoses because of the safety
of course. First of all, the brake pads are noticeably
worn and as you can see the front brake hoses are cracked + the front steel brake lines
are rusting pretty badly as well. This condition is not really acceptable and
these parts should be changed immediately if I would like to use this car on regular
roads without compromising the stopping distance. However since this Range Rover is used for
short distances on roads like this and on dirt roads like this where there is basically
no traffic, I’m just currently not gonna spend more money on it because it doesn’t
make any sense. So what I’m going to do with it next? Who knows? Maybe it will break, maybe I will get rid
of it and maybe I will just drive it until the wheels fall off, but all of this is just
pure speculation so, thanks for watching!

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54 thoughts on “I bought the Cheapest LHD Range Rover in the EU with 447 100 km – Part 2

  1. -English subtitles are available

    -Part 1:
    -It's still working, but it's still not a good idea buying a cheap one like this
    -Don't try this at home !!
    -I was driving this thing the other day and there was some woman on the street on the phone talking to someone, and I'm telling you this car is so loud that when I passed her I literally saw how upset she was because she had to shout to the phone. Well I'm sorry, I guess…

  2. Use a trailer with a tow truck on it. That way you'll be able to get back home (knocking wood). There's a reason why there are still so many Range Rovers on the road: they all broke down.

  3. I love this format you have here. Would love to see more videos similar to this with different cars. I know it won't be cheap but nevertheless I like this

  4. I think it’s very good for it’s age and miles, Ive seen lots worse younger German cars with less miles. Very well accomplished car often underrated, and obviously the weakest part is the gm part

  5. I'm so happy I live in New Zealand, when I crawl under my 20 year old Toyota Camry there is virtually no rust (most cars for of mechanical failure.) Whenever I watch European or North American YouTubers it makes me cringe.

  6. If the gear box gets in limp mode….100% you have a bad crankposition senzor…but you must buy a ORIGINAL one…….i had the same problem to the e38 7 series…&…impuls sensoren in deutsch !!

  7. Brilliant video. You should be on TV. Change the gearbox oil. They say it's sealed for life but it's bullshit. It's a fairly simple job to do.

  8. Nice job! Really like your videos especially your car reviews. I wanted to get your opinion on what are the most reliable used German cars/suvs? I like Lexus and their reliability. But is there anything German That would be comparable.

  9. Try a few tubes of Shudder Fixx. My torque converter was fucked but with a few tubes of that I’ve had another 8000 miles out of it

  10. The humming noise is one / or more wheel bearings, despite sounding like it's coming from the transmission. I changed 3 bearings in one year. Use only Timken bearings.

  11. Junk , definitely , the whole vehicle is 😛
    But looking forward to the new vids, and horror stories about this British stallion

  12. Thx for ur videos.
    plzzz i need ur advises like ur videos about Land Cruiser series( esspecially 4.5 v8 diesel??) and i need ur video about Land criuser ..
    i am waiting for u.

  13. Hey man, please review Honda Civic 🙂 until 2000- 2017 before this new ugly facelift. I know people are saiing those things are very reliable, but is it true.. 😉

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