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How to Install a Performance Intake Manifold and Replace Gaskets (Dyno PROOF)

How to Install a Performance Intake Manifold and Replace Gaskets (Dyno PROOF)


Hey guys ChrisFix here and today I’m going to show you how to replace your intake manifold in your car or your truck Not only am I replacing the intake manifold, but I’ll be replacing the intake manifold gaskets So if you have a bad guess tip, which is causing a vacuum leak I’ll be showing you everything that you need to know on how to replace it now I have to replace the intake manifold because well check this out and that is not good coolant is pouring out of that crack in the intake manifold as getting all over the coil the alternator and also We’re losing a lot of coolant quickly which would cause an overheating issue and destroy the engine So we definitely need to replace that intake manifold now instead of going with the stock intake manifold, which is made out of plastic I decided to go with a Ford Racing Performance intake manifold You can see the crossover tube is made out of aluminum. So we won’t have that cracking issue And also this is a redesigned Performance improved intake so we have better intake runner design and this is supposed to give us a good improvement on horsepower and torque now in order to measure the Improvement on horsepower and torque we’re gonna go take this car to the dyno and see what kind of numbers we’re running right now with a stock intake And check it out here The results the top line here in the blue is the torque and the bottom line here in the green is the horsepower so we made a maximum of 265 foot-pounds of torque and 196 horsepower now notice something here at the higher rpms after about 5,000 rpm So the power we make drops significantly And that might be because of the intake since you need more air at higher Rpms if there’s a restriction like on the stock intake you’ll start losing power instead of gaining power I mean that redline we’re making like a hundred and twenty horsepower. That’s pretty bad So hopefully the new intake not only increases the power but increases the power band at the higher rpms, okay? So now we know how much power our engine makes with the stock intake let’s go remove it and install our Aftermarket intake and this is gonna be super easy to do we’re gonna be using all common tools so you could do this at home One thing I want to mention. This is a non p.i engine and this is API intake So we’re gonna have to do a little bit of retrofitting to make it work with our engine It’s not difficult to do there’s a few extra parts and I’m going to cover all of it in the video as we go I’ll also be sure to link all the tools and products I use in this video in the description so you could easily Find them and with that let’s go get started removing the intake and to do that There are four things we need to do first We need to remove the negative battery cable and also drain all of the coolant after that We need to remove the throttle body then we need to remove the alternator and finally There’s going to be two fuel rails a couple of wires and hoses on the top here We’re going to move off to the side. So we get access to our intake bolts But before we do any of that dust and dirt settles on the engine just from driving and you don’t want any of that dust And dirt to get into the engine when we remove everything So what I like to do is use a leaf blower or compressed air and just knock off all that loose dirt and debris So it doesn’t get into the engine and damage the engine as you remove all these parts and with all that loose dirt blown off The engine now we could remove our negative battery cable We want to do this because we’re gonna be removing the alternator and we don’t want to cause a short and what the negative cable Removed there’s no power running through any of these wires, which is what we want so now let’s go and drain the coolant and if you go to the bottom corner of your radiator There should be a valve to drain your coolant So get a drain pin crack that valve loose and I like to put a small hose on the end of the spigot to minimize the mess and then unscrew the valve until the coolant starts to drain just like so and After you’re done draining your coolant You don’t want to leave it in open containers like this because coolant is poisonous It tastes sweet and animals like your cat or your dog might drink it and that wouldn’t be good. It could kill them So instead of keeping it out put it in a container you could seal and you can take this to get recycled at your local recycle center Some part stores and some of your local mechanic shops and dealerships will take this so that your pets like Cooper stay safe so now we can move on to the next step which is to remove the throttle body and the throttle body has a lot of Connections to it. You have the throttle cable You have all these wires and hoses And vacuum lines and the intake so instead of removing every single thing and losing track What we’re gonna do is we’re gonna remove as little as possible Unbolt the throttle body and then just move the throttle body to the side But before we do that a top tip is grab your camera and take pictures Of all the different connections all the way around the engine So if you forget where something goes you don’t have to worry about it You could reference all these pictures zoom in and see where it goes and that is super helpful Just in case you forget something I know a lot of people always say that they’re afraid that if they disconnect a lot of things they’re not gonna know where it Goes back that fixes that problem. So now let’s get started removing the throttle body We’re gonna have to disconnect the idle air control valve some vacuum lines the throttle position sensor and some more vacuum lines And then the EGR which is pretty tight on here. So a few good hits should loosen that up Now we can remove the five bolts holding the throttle body and plenum into the intake Now the whole assembly should come right off and we can lay it on the fender out of the way Perfect. So with the throttle body and filter removed now We can move on to the next step which is to remove the alternator But before we do that, we’re gonna have to remove the water pump in order to install one of these brand new fittings And since we’re gonna be removing the water pump We might as well replace the water pump with a brand new one preventative maintenance It was cheap enough and in order to get the old water pump out We need to remove those bolts on the pulley since our belt is still attached. Now’s the perfect time to do that So break loose the four bolts holding the pulley on and now we can remove the belt tension to do that Grab a breaker bar and slide the square end into the tensioner assembly Then pull the breaker bar which loosens the tension on the belt so we could remove it now Let’s get these spark plug wires out of the way and disconnect the power cable coming from the alternator then remove the three bracket bolts holding the alternator in and A little trick is to put the bolt back into the part So you don’t lose track of where they go next remove the electrical connectors from the alternator and finally There’s only two bolts holding this alternator in so loosen both of those bolts and the alternator will come right out and with that alternator Removed now we only have one more thing left to do and that is to remove the fuel rails on this side on that side And there’s gonna be a couple of wires the thermostat housing here and then a couple of hoses back there that we’re just gonna move off to the side and Disconnect then we could unbel our intake and remove it So let’s get this driver’s side fuel rail off which is held in by two bolts That’s one and we’ll get the other one loose and that’s the other then it just pops off like that now Let’s move over to the passenger side and do the same exact thing There’s a bolt here good and the bolt here Good And now we can pop off the fuel rail just like that Now with both sides of the fuel rail free and loose we do have a wiring harness that we need to disconnect and that runs All the way to this main connector right here So unscrew the bolt holding this in and it should come right out Now the wiring harness and the fuel rails could be moved out of the way over here. Perfect now let’s remove the heater hose from the back corner of the intake do that by sliding the clip up the hose and then pull the Hose off the intake now. All we have left to remove is the thermostat housing so remove the two bolts at the top, that’s one and That’s the other and let’s move this housing out of the way. All right So with a quick inspection You can see everything is removed And nothing is holding the intake in except these bolts right here and the bolts on the other side But let’s get these spark plug wires out of the way So it’s easier to slide that intake out. And before you remove the plug wires a tip is to label each wire So, you know, which wire goes to which spark plug when you reinstall it? So remove the wires on this side and remove the wires on the other side as well now we need to remove all nine 10 millimeter bolts at the top of the intake which are the only things holding it in and With the last bolt removed the intake comes right out Next we need to plug the intake ports and I like to use aluminum foil to do this I use foil because you could pack it in there and really shape it to the contours of the port’s so no dirt could fall into the head and with that sealed, let’s remove both of these old gaskets and Finally spray down the head surface with some carb cleaner and give it a good scrub with the abrasive end of a spa Which works well to remove the gunk but not scratch the head surface and with our head surface cleaned and degreased I also did the other side there’s one more thing We need to remove and that is this tube right down the middle here and it’s bolted in right back there So remove this bolt and on some engines there are two bolts instead of one holding this in so check for that Then we could unscrew the hose clamp and pop the hose off and with a few taps of the hammer We could remove the heater hose and with that stock heater hose removed There’s one thing I want to show you guys down here This is the fitting the heater hose attaches to and normally you need to swap this out to the performance intake fits but if you look closely this fittings actually the same as the stock one because some 1998 already started using this part and that’s awesome Because now all we have to do is replace the two old overhangs on this fitting with two brand new ones So there won’t be any leaks Next since we have easy access now’s a really good time to replace the water pump It’s so simple to do just remove the already loosened bolts Then pop off the pulley and get it out of the way and that gives you access to the four bolts holding in this water pump Alright, so now it should come out with a little wiggle Beautiful so out with the old water pump and in with the new one now whenever you install new parts I always like to compare them just to make sure you’re installing the right ones Man, that’s not good. And if you take a look at this, these are definitely not the same parts The old water pump is definitely a lot taller than the new one And that means I’m gonna have to make a run to the parts store and back from the parts store luckily They had one in stock that looks a lot better and beautiful So we have the right water pump now and this water pump uses an o-ring to seal and anytime I install something with an o-ring What I like to do is I like to get some silicone grease and just coat the o-ring all the way around with silicone grease So it won’t pinch when you go to install it. It’s also a good idea to clean the water pump surface So it has a nice smooth and clean surface to mount to Now the new water pump could be pushed right into place and I’m gonna be using some medium strength threadlocker on these bolts so they don’t come out because of Vibration so hand tighten all the bolts and then we’re gonna torque them down to spec which is 20 foot-pounds Now we could put the pulley back on the pump and get these bolts hand tightened in so we get torque them down To tighten the pulley bolts wrap the belt around the pulley and pull it tight Now you have enough resistance to prevent the pulley from spinning as you torque them down And now we have a brand new water pump installed. And yes it really is that easy. It’s great preventive maintenance It’s simple because everything’s apart already So it’s a no-brainer to do so now we are ready to install our brand-new Performance Intake now check this out where the performance intake and the stock intake look at how much taller the performance intake is That’s because with the stock intake the runners are short and narrow But with the performance intake the runners are deep and wide and that’s gonna allow higher air flow velocity when an air gets sucked in Also, we have really thin runners up here and then over here We have nice wide runners which is gonna allow more air to go in so higher air flow velocity more air that hopefully equals more Power especially at the higher rpms where our power band is just dropping off I’m hoping that this new intake allows this curve to keep going up and make us some more power and in order to find out We have to install it So let’s go and install this and I did say we are gonna have to retrofit this a little bit to make it work with Our engine and the first thing we need to do you can see what the stock when there’s a coolant temperature sensor here Coolant temperature sensor here and with the aftermarket one We have a hole for the coolant temperature sensor, but here we have a block that we need to drill in tap So let’s go do that now, whatever you’re tapping something You want a nice solid surface to work on and it just so happens that this tire works perfectly for our intake You’re also gonna need to know the size of the thread that your coolant temperature sensor threads into in this case it is a 3/8 – 18 thread and that’s exactly what this tap is and the drill bit that we need for this tap is a 37 64 it’s bit. So first we’re gonna find the center of this and we’re gonna use a center punch and That puts an indentation in there So a small drill bit will fit in there and it won’t skip around you want to use some lubrication to keep the bit cool And drill out a slow to medium speed You want to work your way up with larger and larger drill bits until you have the correct size for your tap? Perfect. Now get your tap and lubricate it the key to a good tap is to make sure that you’re going straight up and down and that you’re applying steady downward pressure on the tap as you turn it do this until it becomes hard to turn and when it’s Hard to turn unscrew it all the way clean the metal shavings off the tap and the threads in the hole and add some lubrication then continue to tap the hole until you tighten it all the way down to the end of your tap and The moment of truth. Let’s see if our coolant temperature sensor threads in haha ma’am, beautiful now That is what I am talking about So now we want to clean out all these aluminum shavings and a quick rinse with the hose works perfect to make sure the coolant Crossover tube is clean and ready to go now Let’s transfer our coolant temperature sensors from our old intake to our new intake and since these come in contact with the coolant It’s a good idea to seal the threads with PTFE tape just use enough tape to cover the threads on the sensor just like that and Then you could screw it in using this tapes gonna help seal the threads so no coolant will leak past them Now you could tighten down the sensors and you don’t want to make them super tight Just get them threaded in there and snug so their leak free and now’s the perfect time to install a brand new thermostat and Gasket for preventative maintenance and a little trick for whenever I install a thermostat. I like to drill a little hole right there which allows any air in the system to bleed through even with the thermostat closed and such a simple trick like that is going to Help you prevent air pockets from getting in your cooling system so now let’s go and start the installation process of our new intake and before the new intake goes in we have to install a New heater hose. Here’s the old heater hose. You can see how it runs straight down the middle And here’s the new heater hose and you can see how it runs up and around so the deeper Performance Intake runners could fit in here So add a little silicone to those o-rings and that should slide right on to there just like that Next grab the bolt to hold the tube in place and tighten it down Good, then we could attach the heater hose and tighten the hose clamp Now let’s go and install our brand new gaskets but first let’s remove the tinfoil from the intake holes being careful not to let anything fall into the intake our Stock gaskets fit our head perfectly, but they don’t fit the new intake manifold So we’re gonna be using the performance intake manifold gaskets And the first thing that you need to do with these is they have these pegs here that don’t line up with the holes on Here so just grab a Clippers and cut the two plastic pegs flush with the gasket Now the performance intake gasket fits almost identical to the stock one except for the coolant port right here now Here’s the stock gasket over the coulomb port and as you can see it goes around the entire Port and here’s the performance intake gasket that we’re gonna be using and you can see the blue part of the gasket Which is what seals it goes over the coolant port instead of going around it So if we installed it like this, it would definitely leak So the trick is to use some RTV Gasquet maker make sure you use one that is compatible with coolant and we’re gonna put a dab of RTV Right on the edge here so that the black part of the gasket will make a seal instead of the blue part That’s probably the hardest part for this whole retrofit doing that, right? I’m gonna show you that in a second and another small problem We have since we cut off those locator tabs the gasket might slide by mistake as we install the intake but a real simple solution Is to get a bolt that threads into these holes and we’re gonna cut the bolt to make our own alignment peg I’m gonna start by cutting a slot at the end here for a flathead screwdriver and then we’ll cut a section off the bolt so we can make our stud and Check it out this fits right in here and you use a flathead Screwdriver to tighten or remove it and we want to install two on each gasket So once they’re in place the gasket won’t move when we’re installing the intake So if both gas gets held in place now We can remove them and add some RTV to the corner of the coolant port You want to add it, right? Here just like that and then carefully align and place the gasket over the RTV now with that coolant port RTV we have one more port on the other side of the engine but instead of being at the front it’s at the back of the engine back here so do the same thing at the RTV to the corner of the coolant port install the gasket and now we could install our intake and when installing the intake just be careful not to move that gasket around too much which could mess up the RTV so now we need to remove those two studs that held our gasket in place as we install the intake and I already removed the Other two from the other side and to do that, I used a screwdriver now It’s really helpful if the screwdrivers magnetic and in this case It’s not so a really cool trick to get your screwdriver to become magnetic is get something that has a magnet on it like this Tray right here. This is the whole bolts and just touch it to a magnet multiple times They’re stronger the magnet the better and now check this out now Our tool is magnetic and that’s going to help a lot when we’re removing the studs. So let’s go do that now and Let’s see. Yes, check it out that worked perfectly get the other one out as well Good and with all the studs removed now we could go and install our intake manifold bolts so one thing I want to show you real quick because you guys might be concerned seeing all this mess all the wires all the Bolts that we removed. How do you keep track of everything besides those pictures? I took initially one thing I like to do is label baggies So here all the intake bolts the throttle body bolts fuel rail bolts I even have the thermostat bolts here and then anything I don’t label I just put back exactly where they go So here’s the alternator bolt that way you keep track of everything and it’s easy to install So let’s grab our intake bolts and get these hand tightened Now before we torque down all the intake bolts and compress that gasket all the way It’s important that we let the RTV cure for an hour That way the RTV becomes more rubbery and then when we compress the gasket, it’ll create a good seal So we don’t have any coolant leaks and one hour later We’re ready to tighten down our intake now. We’re gonna be tightening it down in a specific sequence We’re gonna be starting from the middle. We’re gonna be moving outwards in a crisscross pattern And we’re gonna be tightening these bolts to 20 foot-pounds of torque The reason why we’re going in a crisscross pattern from the middle outwards is so that the gasket gets crushed Evenly and creates a nice tight seal Perfect. Now we could put the harness back in place and just press the injectors into the holes to install the fuel rail good then Torque down the two bolts holding the fuel rail in place and finally install the spark plug wires in their respective holes Now we want to follow the same exact process on the other side Press the fuel rail in torque down the two bolts and install the spark plug wires Now let’s get the heater core hose on the intake and slide the hose clamp down the end of the hose Then reconnect the main wiring harness and tighten down that bolt so it’s snug Finally get the two alternator bolts in place and map the alternator then torque down the bolts to 20 foot pounds and connect the two harnesses and Now we could get our alternator bracket on notice how I had to drill a hole here and a hole here so it fits our performance intake and if you rather you could always go to a junkyard and get a bracket off a car that Already has the p.i. Intake Now loosen the belt tension so we could slip the belt back on the alternator pulley and that is done now I do have a very nice brand new high-performance throttle body, which is supposed to get us a lot more power But I’m not gonna install in this video because I don’t want to mess up the dyno results The only thing we want to change is the performance intake so we could see what results we get from that So for now, let’s get the stock intake in place with the five bolts and torque each one down to ten foot pounds So we don’t get any vacuum leaks now. It can reconnect any electrical connectors. We removed reconnect any vacuum lines We removed and tighten down the EGR tube All right with everything connected I also connected the negative terminal on the battery and we have one thing left to do before we could start her up and that Is fill the cooling system, make sure that radiator drain valve is closed and let’s go fill her up Make sure you use the correct 50/50 antifreeze water mix and once we fill the system with the coolant we could start her up Now we just need to let that engine run let all that coolant get sucked into the engine and let that thermostat open get it Up to operating temperature so our air could bleed out as that happens We just want to take a quick look and inspect everything make sure the fuel injectors aren’t leaking Make sure there’s no coolant leaks and and everything is looking perfect. Now you heard when the engine started it ran a little rough That’s because we have a brand new intake and the computer had to adjust it made that adjustment real quickly. It sounds great Now it’s running awesome So now we just need to wait for the air to bleed out of the cooling system after The engine warms up and the air bleeds out. We can remove the funnel and we are done So let’s head over to the dyno and see if we made any more power All right, so we went from 196 to 208 horsepower which is a gain of 12 horsepower now while our max horsepower increased our maximum torque decreased just a little bit we went from 265 pound feet of torque to 258 pound-feet of torque which is the loss of seven pound-feet which might sound like a bad thing But it actually doesn’t tell the whole story check this out You can see that thinner line is the before and the thicker line is the after so we did lose a little bit of torque Here, but right after 4,000 rpms Look at this Increase of torque all the way up to redline that is huge saying what the horsepower the lines were pretty close together but after 4,000 rpms, look at this increase in horsepower at redline, we were at 120 horsepower before now we’re at 170 horsepower that’s a 50 horsepower Increase at redline and that makes sense because the larger intake runners are going to allow more air in at the higher rpms So, there we go and that is how you install a Performance intake our stock intake was cracked and leaking so we might as well upgrade and get some more power out of the car Hopefully the video was helpful if it was remember to give it a thumbs up also If you’re not a subscriber consider subscribing as always all the tools and products I used in this video will be linked in the description And finally our new performance intake will definitely complement that supercharger. We’re going to be installing so stay tuned

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0 thoughts on “How to Install a Performance Intake Manifold and Replace Gaskets (Dyno PROOF)

  1. I really admire the work you put in all the videos. I check for your new videos almost daily and always wonder what takes you so long. Everytime I see the new video I'm like "okay, this was worth waiting". The work you have to put in repairing the car and in addition to that, the work you have to put in moving and placing the camera so every bolt you touch is visible for the viewer and finally editing the video the way you do it (every transition, every splitscreen, all the bolts to mark and these things you do with graphs) must take hours and hours. I really appreciate it and hope that you'll keep doing such a great videos. Even though I don't even have a car, I always enjoy your videos, so one day I buy myself a car, i can do it at home just because of you. Thank you!

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