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DIY: 5 Lug Conversion on your Car or Truck


Hey guys Chrisfix here and today I’m going to show you how to do a 4 to 5 lug conversion It’s actually really simple to do we’ll be doing it on this Nissan 240. Now this Nissan 240 is not any 240 it is my friends, and fellow YouTuber, Saab Kyle’s! What’s up, everyone! and the reason why we’re doing this is because some cars come stock with a four lug setup You can see we have one, two, three, four as opposed to the more common five lug setup, which we’ll be swapping in. And since the 5 lug setup is so much more common, it gives us so many more wheel options. Such as running a wider wheels for more grip, and larger wheels for more space, since this car is getting a massive six piston big brake kit because unlike other 240s, this 240 isn’t getting drifted, it’s getting restomoded! And Kyle just unveiled his built Turbo RB Twenty-Five engine that’s going into the car. And he also has a large pile of parts that still have to get installed. So be sure to check out his channel for updates on the restoration, and I’ll include a link in the description. So this car is really going to be something special when it’s done! Not only is it can perform amazing, But it’s going to look amazing, and part of the looks are the wheels! So we need to get these wheels on this car, and in order to do that, we need to go from this four lug setup to the 5 lug setup, so let’s get started on doing that! We’re going to be using all common hand tools, so could easily do this job at home in the driveway. Parts wise, you’re going to need five lug hubs. We have five lug front hubs and five lug rear hubs, and because the 240 has a four lug rotor, you’re also going to have to remember to get five lug rotors. And finally we only have four lug nuts now, we need an extra lug nut, so you might as well just buy a whole set of brand-new fresh lug nuts to look good with those new wheels. And that’s all we need, so let’s begin! The first thing we need to do is jack up the vehicle. In this situation our car is pretty low, so it’s hard to get the jack under the front. Not a lot of clearance, so what we’re going to do instead is we’re going to jack the car up from the side. But before we jack up the car from the side we’re going to turn the steering wheel so we can better access the bolts from the back side. Once we get the wheel off, we also want to come to the other side of the car and chalk off the wheels, so the car doesn’t roll now. We could jack up the car from the side, but we don’t want to put the jack right in the middle, because that puts a lot of stress on the frame. Rather, we want to put the jack right behind the wheel, and we want to jack right on his frame rail in the front. As we jack up from the side you can see not only does the front wheel come off the ground, but the rear wheel lifts off as well. Once both wheels are high enough, then we could slide the front and rear jack stands under the frame and slowly let the car down onto the jack stands. With the car on jack stands, we could remove the jack, and what we’re going to want to do is anytime you jack up the vehicle always shake It real good to make sure it’s sturdy. And this car is not moving, so we’re ready to work on the car. So let’s start with the front wheel, and remove all four lug nuts, and the wheel, and slide it under the car for extra protection. All right, so now we’re ready to get to our four lug hub, so that we could replace it with our five lug hub, which also comes with a brand new bearing. In order to get to this hub off, we have to remove this dust cover. That will pop off, and we have access to the spindle nut. After we remove the spindle nut, we could take the brakes off, and then our hubs should come right out. So wedge your screwdriver behind the dust cap and give it a twist. It should pop right off. Now we need to remove the spindle nut. But first, there’s a cotter pin in the way, so pry the ends of the cotter pin so they straighten out, and pull it out with the pliers. And if it breaks, don’t worry. Just pull it out from the other side.
Now we can remove the spindle nut. And this one is a 30 millimeter. So use a breaker bar and break it free, and unscrew it the rest of the way off. And with the spindle nut removed, we’re halfway done at getting this four lug hub out! It is really that simple! All we have to do now is remove the brake caliper, and then the brake rotor and in order to do that, we need to go behind here, and then there’s two bolts. One up here one down here that need to be removed. We’ll start with the top one. This is a 19 millimeter, break it loose, and that’s the first one. Now we’ll do the bottom. Break it loose, and that’s two. With those two bolts removed, now the brake caliper should slide right out. But before we do that, we want to grab something like a bungee cord and hang it up here. So when we take the brake caliper off, we’re not letting it dangle from the brake hose, which could damage it. Instead, connect the bungee To the caliper and hang it on the suspension that way, there’s no stress on the brake hose. Now we could remove the brake rotor and since we are ready to remove that spindle nut, this four lug hub and wheel bearings should slide right out. So out with the old four lug hub and bearing, and in with the new five lug hub and bearing! One thing you want to do is you want to make sure that you grab any washers or anything that are in the old hub. I also want to show you something really cool. Check this out! This is the original wheel bearing, and look at how much play is in here So not only are we changing from a four to five lug hub, but we’re installing brand-new wheel bearings. We wipe down our spindle surface, Make sure it’s free of any debris. You could also hit it with some brake cleaner to get all that dust out of there, so the wheel bearings last a good long time. Now with the spindle surface nice and clean, we could add our five lug hub and wheel bearing. It just slides right on like that. And don’t forget about the washer! And slides that right in. And make sure it’s seated against the bearing good. Now before installing the axle nut, what I like to do is I like to get some blue medium strength thread-locker, and just put It on the threads of the spindle. And then technically every time you unscrew an axle nut you’re supposed to replace it with a new one, but to be honest with you with a little thread-locker and it torqued to the right spec, I’ve never had a problem with reusing the old axle nut when it’s in good condition. With the axle nut hand tightened, it’s very important that we torque it down to the correct torque spec. In this case, It’s a hundred and thirty foot-pounds. Reason being is this axle nut is pushing up against the bearing so if it’s too loose, or if it’s too tight, it could cause that bearing to wear out prematurely, and then you’ll have to do this all over again. So let’s make sure we torque it down to 130 foot pounds. Good! Now you want to install a new cotter pin. Don’t reuse the old pin, in this case, I can’t because I destroyed it, but even if it’s in decent shape like this, don’t reuse it. These cotter pins are inexpensive enough, and they are just an extra safety item so your axle nut doesn’t back out. With the cotter pin, what you want to do is you want to bend it open, and this one had it wrapped around the top, and you could also bend the other one. And that is exactly how a cotter pin should look. The pin goes through, we bent it around the top, and we also bent it around the back, and it’s set in place and that spindle nut is secure. And with that, the hub and bearing is securely in place. Now we’re going to add our brand new five lug brake rotor. But since its brand new, spray it with brake cleaner and wipe off all the oils they use to prevent it from rusting in the packaging. And look at all that oil! These oils need to come off so they don’t contaminate the brake pads and cause brake noise, or worse, brakes slip! Now, we could install the brake rotor. Then we can unhook the brake caliper and slide that right over the new rotor. Perfect! now all we have to do is tighten up these two caliper mounting bolts. But before that, I like to add a Little bit of threadlocker to each bolt. And the medium strength threadlocker is going to prevent vibrations from loosening up these bolts. But, it’s also easy to remove with hand tools, which is why I use it. Now, with both of those caliper bolts hand tightened we could grab our torque wrench, and we’re going to torque them down. And the whole point of us turning the wheel outwards, is so we have more access back here, which makes these bolts way easier to torque down. And they have to get torqued down to 70 foot pounds. Good! And finally, to finish the conversion on the front, just get your dust cover, push it in, and then hammer it in. In this case, we can’t use the dust cover, because they do not clear the new wheels. And that’s all it takes to go from a four log hub to a five lug hub! The conversion is simple in the front! And now, before we put these volk wheels on, let’s go and convert the rear! Now the rear end conversion is a little bit different, because this is a driven wheel. There’s an axle in here, and this wheel gets the power, so this hub is actually bolted in. Unlike the front hub, which just slides in. So, the process is similar. First, remove the cotter pin by straightening the cotter pin up, and pulling it out. This one came out a little bit better than the front one! Then remove this axle nut cover. And now we’re able to remove that axle nut. But before we do that, if the threads on your axle are dirty, get a little bit of brake clean and Just clean them off, so that you’re unscrewing the axle nut on clean threads, and not dirty threads, you don’t want to damage the threads on your axle. Another little tip is that this axle nut is going to be on there really tight. So when you try to loosen it, the axle is just going to spin. So, a little trick is to go into the interior of the car, Shift the car in the first and pull up the ebrake. Then use a 36 millimeter socket and breaker bar to break that loose! Now we can unscrew the axle nut almost all the way. Don’t remove it, get it so it’s flush with the axle, just like that. Because sometimes the axle gets stuck in the splines of the hub, so we want to hit the axle inwards to make sure it’s not seized up. Just give it a few good taps, and you can see the axle moved inwards. So now, we know the axle is free to move from the hub. It’s not seized up and our axle nut is removed Now go in the car, and put it in neutral, and lower the ebrake, so we could spin the axle. And I’ll show you why that’s important in a second. But first, we need to remove the brakes. So start by breaking the top bolt loose, then unscrew it all the way and remove the bolt. And for the bottom bolt, I’m going to Extend the ratchet to give me more leverage. And that broke loose even easier than the top! And now, we could slide the caliper off and rest it on the control arm, so it’s not hanging from the brake line. and finally get that rotor out of the way. now unlike the front hub, the rear hub has four bolts on the back that holds it in. If we move over to the side there’s one up there one down there and on the other side, there’s one up there and one down there and those need to be removed we could get access from behind and then pop this out Now one way to get to the bolts that are holding this hub in or to come up here and remove the control arms So we could tilt this knuckle forward, but I actually have a better way. That’s a lot easier Which is why we have the car in neutral, so let’s come around the back here. So we’re working on this side We have a bolt here and a bolt here, but you can see the axles in the way so if we try to put our wrench in here There’s no way we could get the wrench to fit So all you have to do is spin the axle, and you can see the axle has a little cutout here So now your ratchet will fit right in so break the bolt loose and loosen it up all the way then spin the axle break the bottom one loose and Remove that bolt as well now with these two bolts removed Let’s go to the other side and remove those two bolts. The only thing is on this side It’s a little bit tighter because we have the coil over, but it’s still completely doable break that bolt loose then remove it the rest of the way good spin the axle to make room at the bottom break that bolt loose and Remove that last bolt completely now with all four of our hub bolts out now We could try pulling on this hub and removing it try to pull it off by hand But usually it’s not going to come off so give it a few tests with a hammer and it’s really getting loose and slide Right off like that Beautiful so out with the old and in with the new but before we install this we want to clean the axle up so remove The dust shield and spray it all down with brake cleaner Then wipe it clean with the towel and with the axle all clean I like to apply a little bit of anti-seize to the splines Of the actual this is going to prevent rust and make it easier for the hub and bearing assembly to come out if it needs To be removed in the future all right So let’s put on the dust shield and slide the new Hub assembly on like that Then let’s Prep the four Hub bolts by adding medium strength Ed locker to all of them Next align the holes in the dust shield and the hub with the knuckle and get a bolt in there the hole It in now, we can hand tighten the rest And that’s the second third and our last one right here good and with those four hub bolts hand tightened now We could use a torque wrench and tighten them down all the way we want to torque these bolts in a crisscross pattern So the hub seats evenly on the knuckle And they all get tightened at 70 foot-pounds good With the four Hub bolts torqued down this hub assembly is in But we’re not going to tighten down that axle nut just yet first. We want to install the brakes so put the new clean brake rotor on and a little trick to hold the rotor in place is to use a lug nut and tighten it down so the rotor won’t move Then slide the brake caliper over the rotor and grab the two caliper bolts add a little thread locker and let’s start by hand tightening The top one then do the bottom one and now we could torque them down to sixty foot pounds Good All right with both of those bolts torqued down our brakes are in and we have one more thing We need to do and that is tighten that axle nut but before we could do that We have to go into the car put it in first and set the ebrake and Now our axle isn’t going to budge when we tighten the nut so first get your old four lug hub and remove that washer We’re going to slide that right on then add a little medium strength thread locker and hand tighten that axle nut Now here comes the fun part we have to torque this axle nut to 200 foot-pounds of torque that is a lot of torque Perfect, and finally we can install our axle nut cover and then get a brand new cotter pin slip it through and open up both Sides of the cotter pin around the axle now We can remove our lug nut that held the rotor in place And we are done and this conversion allows us go from this wheel to this wheel and not only does it look better But check out the difference in width so we have this and then we have that that is going to give us a lot more grip for when he puts that RV engine in here, so there’s a before and After look at how good that looks so let’s drop her down Holy smokes these wheels just set this car off and there you go that is how you do a four log to five lug conversion Even if you’re not doing the fortified conversion that shows you how to replace the rear and front wheel bearing This car looks so good now. It’s going to perform even better. Hopefully the video is helpful If it was remember to give it a thumbs up if you’re not a subscriber consider hitting that subscribe button And as always all the products I use in my videos are linked in the description, so you could easily find them

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